June 16, 2023 Friday
Miles: 62.37. Total accent: 2,267
Totals: 737.6 miles. Accent: 26,204. 63.35 hours in the saddle
The dawn of a new morning…blessed with another day to live.
The tent brightens as the sun begins it’s climb into the sky. We huddle closely as it is chilly, thankful for a down quilt. Our breath floats through the air like the morning fog.
Today is the day. The climb to Lolo Pass. We’ve heard so many stories and are experiencing nervous anticipation.
We decide to wait until the Lodge opens so we can get a hot cup of coffee. Meanwhile, we break camp and Drew gets footage of the fog using the drone.
Overhead, ravens fly from tree to tree, their deeps voices resonating across the valley.
In the nook of a tree, I find a gnome.
A younger cyclist traveling alone also camped nearby last night. He is headed west and has just come over Lolo Pass. We expected to see others out exploring. It’s so fun to find out where they came from and where they’re going!
All packed and it’s now 8 am. The restaurant opens. This morning, we meet Neil and Rett. They are cycle touring full-time. It’s fascinating to hear about how they sold everything (house, cars), took early retirement and have been on the road since September 2021. They shared how they completed a 3 month tour in Mexico and are headed to New Zealand in October. One might think traveling by bike over time would cause you to look homeless. They were vibrant and looked like they started riding yesterday. They, too, were headed to Missoula. Rett has a standing Zoom appointment the first Friday of each month at 5 PM. Drinks with her girlfriends. It’s amazing how ‘normal’ life on the bike can be.
Just before leaving camp, I meet a man who is there to bear hunt. He mentions they have spotted a big one and are waiting to get it. He asks if we are traveling by bicycle or motorcycle and I point to the bicycles. He then says he feels sorry for cyclists as he has watched them climb the grades. I explained it’s not so bad, you just take your time and pace yourself. He then replies “You certainly have the legs for it!”. I smile realizing 40 years ago I would have been quite offended but at this point in my life, I love my big, strong legs! Oh, how life changes over time!! He then asks if I know about the plant identification on the iPhone. Sure! I pull up a photo to share and realize I had already gone to airplane mode and disconnected from the WiFi. Oh what creatures of habit we are. Push a button and things magically happen. That’s my paradigm. But this journey is teaching me to change.
Off we go on Highway 12 headed to Lolo Pass. I am pacing myself staying in a comfortable zone. I notice I have a butterfly escort, seeing its shadow on the road in front of me. It was with me for several minutes.
Along the road was a small stream trickling by. It sounded so peaceful. In days past, I would check the Garmin after each climb to see the elevation change but not today. The numbers don’t matter right now. Knowing doesn’t make it easier. I think of others who have climbed this and the ‘little sister’ in me surfaces. Being the baby in the family, it never occurred to me that I couldn’t/shouldn’t be able to do what my older siblings were doing. So I did.
Several sections of the road looked so much like Zwift segments in Watopia. I know this. It’s so familiar.
I then think back to some of the toughest climbs and hardest stretches I’ve ridden. I thought of climbing up Worsley on Jim James’ wheel, my heart rate at 170. I can do this!
Small rocks begin to slide down the mountain side on my right. I look behind to make sure it’s clear and move away from the shoulder. Rocks falling could be catastrophic. As we travel, we fondly call rocks in our path ‘Bensons’. So many variables must be dealt with while out on the road.
Climb, climb, climb. Relax the shoulders, use the core, keep the pedal stroke smooth and fluid-no flat spots. Breathe.
I am in awe of how the Salsa Warbird is performing. Gearing is perfect. It handles predictably and the bike fit from @Rachel Wilson is perfect.
Drew calls to me. ‘Look’ as he points to the sky. A red tail hawk crested over the peak and flys across the road, letting out a screech as he passes me. I now know everything will be okay.
We stop at all the road signs to take photos…to share the experience with you. It would be challenging to do this in a car. There are signs talking about fires in the area. I then catch a glimpse of a rider ahead of us who rides out of sight.
A few minutes later, we catch
Jason. He is taking a break on the side of the road. We chat a bit. He’s from Oklahoma and teaches high school there. He is getting called in early so has to cut his trip short.
Continuing up the road, the wind shifts and suddenly I am getting pushed up the hill. It feels like when Eric Riser places his hand on my lower back up steep climbs. It helps ease the strain.
Nearly an hour passes from the last stop and we crest the climb and arrive at Lolo Pass visitors center. Wow! That wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. And, even though we are at 5,225 foot elevation, we don’t notice the altitude. It is breathtaking there. The visitors center has so much information and the staff are so kind. And yes…a great cup of coffee! We linger and chat with others for about 30 minutes when we are given the news that snow is expected the next few hours. It’s cloudy and cold. We leave, stopping long enough to photograph beautiful white flowers at the edge of the road and the ‘Welcome to Montana’ sign and off we go. We are now on mountain time.
Alrighty. We both know how challenging it is to ride in bad weather. It’s now time to go from ‘Mosie Mode’ to RIDE!
We get some long descents where we can coast but then get to flatter sections. Drew is pulling into a headwind at 20+ mph on a fully loaded bike weighing about 100 lbs. I hear @Brian McColloch’s voice in my head: Rule Number One-don’t get dropped! I dig deep just to hang onto Drew’s wheel. I’ve ridden with him long enough to recognize when he’s on a death march-head down, super focused and pushing out watts. It’s like he goes into a trance. I’m hanging on for dear life and the miles are flying by. While I am not using a heart rate monitor on this trip, my heart rate is at 170ish. After years of riding, I just know how this feels. It’s sustainable for a while. We take a two minute break to drink and I pull out a spoon and Nutella. Right now, we just need fuel…we’re burning through it like a wild fire. Back to it and Drew drops the hammer again. I dig deep and remember Cycling = pain. If you’re not hurting, you’re not riding hard enough. Right @Sue Skarin McClure? Until now , we’ve just been touring.
On the roadside is a sign that says the white cross signs signify a fatality. We see one or two then consistently more and more. I realize many souls have been lost on this stretch of the road. I say a prayer that today, we will be spared. Over the past two weeks, it has become evident that man’s greatest enemy is not bear or wolf…not disease or illness but man. And looking back in history as with the Nez Perce people, men kill men. We are our own worst enemy.
Another sweeping turn and we come to Lolo Hot Springs Resort, riding through the parking lot before returning to the road.
Nearing Missoula, we find the Bitterroot Trail and are able to get off the highway. Now, I can capture more photos!
Tomorrow is our rest day and rain is in the forecast. A quick change of plans from camping to a hotel room is made. Maintaining our bodies as well as equipment is critical if we are going to be successful in this tour. We also need to charge multiple devices after using the power bricks to keep them going over the past few days.
Once checked in, we catch a bite at a local restaurant, come back and shower. With full bellies, we decide to watch a little TV….with our eyes closed. LOL!
Today marks the end of week two. We continue to feel strong and oh so fortunate.
So many of you have had such a positive impact in our lives…in so many ways…whether on the bike, in the office or by being a faithful and loving friend. Because of you, we are strong, determined, resilient, humble and thankful. Without you, life would be meaningless. We appreciate you…more than you will ever know.
Thank you for riding along with us today.